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Diversify executive leadership.
Fashion exists in a vortex of trends. Certain colors make their way into vogue as quickly as they make their way out. What’s considered chic can easily turn in a faux pas in a matter of a few months. And while fashion continues to work on a more sustainable system to combat waste, there’s one topic currently in vogue that must not be seen as a trend: diversity in fashion’s workplaces.
Happy Tuesday and welcome back to the Anti-Racism Daily! I've really been enjoying Isiah's critical analysis of the fashion industry, especially as fashion shows and award shows take over my social media feeds. But today's article resonates with me because the issues outlined here are reflected in many other industries. As you read, consider: how can you carry the same energy into the industry you work in, or are passionate about?
This newsletter is a free resource made possible by our paying subscribers. Consider giving $7/month on Patreon. Or you can give one-time on our website, PayPal, or Venmo (@nicoleacardoza). You can also support us by joining our curated digital community. Thank you to all those that have contributed!
Nicole
TAKE ACTION
Do more than hire Black and Brown Talent. Promote and hire Black and Brown talent for executive positions, also.
For predominantly white workplaces: instead of relying on friends for the unpaid labor of informing you about the importance of a diverse workplace, hire professional diversity consultants like 2BG Consulting.
Don’t just work on diversifying workplaces, but ensure that workplaces cultivate an environment where Black and Brown employees feel safe and thrive.
Encourage your favorite brands and retailers to join the 15 Percent Pledge – an initiative that asks retailers to reserve 15 percent of their shelving space for Black-owned businesses.
GET EDUCATED
By Isiah Magsino (he/him)
Fashion exists in a vortex of trends. Certain colors make their way into vogue as quickly as they make their way out. What’s considered chic can easily turn in a faux pas in a matter of a few months. And while fashion continues to work on a more sustainable system to combat waste, there’s one topic currently in vogue that must not be seen as a trend: diversity in fashion’s workplaces.
In the wake of the Black Lives Matter protests in the response to George Floyd’s murder, fashion brands all over the world suddenly felt the need to address racism in the fashion industry (Dazed). From futile black squares captioned “I understand, that I’ll never understand” to posting pictures of Black and Brown models on their social media pages that were undiscovered until this time, brands were desperate to save themselves by coming off as an advocate for racial equality.
But, unlike in the past, employees from the institutions called out the reality of the systemic racism, microaggressions, and lack of diversity in their own offices (Vogue Business). High-fashion Australian brand, Zimmerman, was one of the brands called out after their internal grooming regulations were brought to the limelight. These regulations specifically targeted Black and Brown natural hairstyles and prohibited high buns, top knot, plaits, and braids (Vogue Business). And the high-fashion market isn’t the only place where public messages didn’t match with internal practices. The sustainable, millennial-focused brand, Everlane, was called out by former employees for their “anti-Black” behavior. The accusations include the large pay gap between queer women of color and white men and refusing to use Black models in their campaigns because they were “too edgy” according to the executives (Fashionista).
And explicitly toxic workplaces aren’t exempt from this diversity malpractice, either. In 2018, fashion’s runways were becoming more diverse than ever with almost 50 percent of Black and Brown models in New York and 36-percent through all fashion locations (New York, London, Milan, Paris). And while this was an improvement from the reported 30-percent in 2017, the Black and Brown editors, buyers, and other decision-makers were scarce (New York Times). Just recently, the New York Times came out with a follow-up report as many brands publicly promised to improve diversity within the workplace in 2020. The article cites that, in 2021, there is only one Black chief executive officer out of the 64 brands they contacted for the new survey (New York Times). There are also only four Black creative directors and designers out of 69 from the same batch of surveyed brands. For fashion magazines, only two of the nine domestic and international editions of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Elle were led by Black editors.
An industry where nepotism and classism are rampant is also an incubator for systemic racism. Without familial ties or financial support, launching a company is especially difficult for Black and Brown designers (Fast). In 2019, the predominantly white Council of Fashion Designers crowned Mary Kate and Ashley as the winner for the Accessories Designer of the year and a hefty $400,000 USD grand prize. This would be their second year in a row. The other four nominees for the category were all Black designers-- Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton, Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss, Telfar Clemens of Telfar, and Heron Preston (Nylon). The unpaid internship, a common practice in the industry, only offers the opportunity to those with financial support oftentimes limiting Black and Brown talent (Fashionista).
How can an industry parade its interest in diversity, while still prohibiting Black and Brown talent from the decision-making process? If morals and ethics aren’t enough for brands to create workplace environments where Black and Brown’s talent is heard and nurtured, they must consider the power of social media. Without Black and Brown leadership, brands have the potential to come across major backlash as seen when H&M sold a “Coolest Monkey in the Jungle” sweatshirt (Washington Post.) Consumers are hyper-aware of these malpractices and have more than enough resources to support brands that are more than willing to cultivate diverse talent. Ultimately, it’s said that fashion has always been reflective of the times. Now, the times are looking both on the inside and the out.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Many fashion brands are quick to publicly denounce racism, but will still participate in systemic racism within their own offices whether that be through microaggressions or pay gaps.
The New York Times recently reported that in 2021, there is only one Black chief executive officer out of the 64 brands that were contacted and only four Black creative directors out of 69 designers from the same survey group.
Unpaid internships in the fashion industry prohibit Black and Brown talent from entering.
Without diversity in decision-making processes, brands run the risk of future backlash with socially-aware consumers who are quick to respond on social media.
RELATED ISSUES
3/4/2021 | Reject appropriation in fashion.
2/9/2021 | Decolonize sustainable + ethical fashion.
12/17/2020 | Respect Hawaii’s sacred land.
PLEDGE YOUR SUPPORT
Thank you for all your financial contributions! If you haven't already, consider making a monthly donation to this work. These funds will help me operationalize this work for greatest impact.
Subscribe on Patreon | Give one-time on PayPal | Venmo @nicoleacardoza
Reject appropriation in fashion.
Until its end in 2019, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show reigned supreme in not only pageantry and glittery wings but also cultural appropriation. Leaked photos from the 2012 live show revealed that supermodel Karlie Kloss donned a large feathered Native American headdress paired with a fringed suede bikini accessorized with turquoise jewelry. Though the immediate backlash caused the look to be cut from the broadcast, it wouldn’t stop the lingerie conglomerate from finding itself guilty for the same crime again in 2016 and 2017 (CRFashionbook).
Happy Friday! And thanks for being here once again. We often get questions on what the line is between cultural appropriation and appreciation when it comes to clothing. It's not a straightforward line, but it's necessary to understand who benefits – and who is harmed – when the fashion industry celebrates cultural and ethnic markers at the expense of the communities it represents. Here to share more is Isiah.
This newsletter is a free resource made possible by our paying subscribers. Consider giving $7/month on Patreon. Or you can give one-time on our website, PayPal, or Venmo (@nicoleacardoza). You can also support us by joining our curated digital community. Thank you to all those that have contributed!
Nicole
TAKE ACTION
Boycott labels that continue to appropriate cultural aesthetics without proper accreditation. Ask yourself: Have they collaborated with an artist, designer, musician that identifies with the culture they’re trying to emulate?
Hold brands accountable by sharing issues publicly, contacting corporate PR and design teams, and refusing to buy products from these companies.
Stay informed about racism and diversity in fashion by following accounts such as The Fashion Law and Black in Fashion Council.
GET EDUCATED
By Isiah Magsino (he/him)
Until its end in 2019, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show reigned supreme in not only pageantry and glittery wings but also cultural appropriation. Leaked photos from the 2012 live show revealed that supermodel Karlie Kloss donned a large feathered Native American headdress paired with a fringed suede bikini accessorized with turquoise jewelry. Though the immediate backlash caused the look to be cut from the broadcast, it wouldn’t stop the lingerie conglomerate from finding itself guilty for the same crime again in 2016 and 2017 (CRFashionbook).
But these aren’t the only places where appropriation happens. Fast-fashion retailer Zara is no stranger to cultural appropriation. The brand came under fire in 2018 after knocking off the traditional baati style from Somali by calling it a Tie-Dye Maxi Dress (Allure). Some brand insiders argue that the outfits are meant to celebrate cultures from around the world, but this misunderstanding of what’s appreciation and what’s appropriation is another flaw the fashion industry must fix (BBC). (To learn more about the problems with the fast-fashion industry, check out our previous newsletter.)
By definition, appropriation is when a person from one culture adopts the fashion, iconography, or traditions from another culture (Very Well Mind). While the act might not sound that bad, the issue lies when the borrower (who often belongs to the oppressive or dominant culture) profits off of, falsely represent or exploits whatever is being borrowed (Reach Out). As cultural appropriation remains widespread amongst the white elite, the issue isn’t necessarily that they take inspiration from other cultures. It’s that those in power take from and profit off of Black and Brown creators, while such creators are excluded from recognition and oftentimes reprimanded for the same styles that are being stolen (Vox ATL). For example, singer Billie Eilish was accused of appropriating Black, hip-hop fashion styles from the 90s. When her “style” is written about, the media often doesn’t credit the Black icons like Aaliyah and Dapper Dan whom her style ultimately emulates (Buzzfeed). Similarly, in 2020, Kim Kardashian was accused of appropriating Black culture after posting pictures of herself wearing Fulani Braids (Independent UK).
On a larger scale, cultural appropriation in fashion points to a racist system of power. Borrowed styles are often glamourized on white bodies, but looked down upon on the Black and Brown bodies where the styles originated. Fashion designer Marc Jacobs immediately faced backlash after featuring dreadlocks in a show with mostly white models in 2017 (Dazed). Using dreadlocks as a costume for a fifteen-minute show ignores the reality of the Black people who experience discrimination and harassment for their hairstyles. Black women continue to have career opportunities taken away from them simply because of their natural hair (Shape). Coils, afros, and dreads have long been considered “unprofessional” due to Western beauty standards which forces Black women in the workplace to abide in order to gain or retain employment (Shape). For more about cultural appropriation and Black hair, check out our previous newsletter.
Similarly, the “fox-eye” trend is a make-up look that uses eyeliner to make the eyes appear more slanted. The irony is that the Asian American community continues to be discriminated against for these same features (Teen Vogue). Not only are the designs and beadwork of Indigenous people exploited by non-Indigenous retailers, but around the world, Indigenous people—themselves—are as well (Unreasonable). White people who appropriate cultures are able to move seamlessly in and out and borrow styles without suffering the consequences put in place by them.
While white fashion designers and retailers profit off of these stolen styles from Black and Brown people, designers of color often are struggling and in need of financial support. In 2017, four percent of women-owned fashion businesses and only thirteen percent minority-owned businesses received venture capital funding (Fast Company). As COVID-19 continues, an estimated ninety percent of small businesses owned by people of color are excluded from the Small Business Administration’s Paycheck Protection Program (Fashionista).
Unsurprisingly, cultural appropriation in fashion isn’t new. Its origins can be traced through textiles and materials made of interlacing fibers that often are used in clothing and upholstery. For example, the nineteenth-century European court dress, a style that was popular for formal occasions, borrowed fashion and Asiatic themes that resembled the Indian Kashmir shawl (WWD). The textile moved into vogue among the masses as it was donned by Emperor Bonaparte’s wife, Josephine (WWD). At the same time that India was controlled by the British Empire and its citizens were subjugated to colonial rule, their styles were being stolen and worn.
The modern-day issue of cultural appropriation is a continuation of a history where people of color and their cultures are colonized and oppressed—at the same time—as what they wear is stolen and used. Today, social media enables consumers to more fully understand where styles are borrowed from (BBC). Consumers and inherent participants in the fashion industry should remain aware of where their money is being spent, as well as, who is benefitting from it. Conducting thorough research is vital in the support of Black and Brown artisans while, on the other hand, brands prone to appropriation instead of appreciation must be held accountable.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Cultural appropriation in fashion is rampant, and signifies the power differential between who can take and who is being taken from.
Appropriated styles are often glamourized on white bodies, but denigrated on the Black and Brown bodies where the styles originated.
Cultural appropriation in fashion has a long history. At the same time that India was controlled and subjugated by the British Empire, Indian styles became fashionable in European courts.
While white designers profit off of appropriated styles, Black and Brown designers often lack financial support. An estimated 90% of small businesses owned by people of color are excluded from the Paycheck Protection Program (Fashionista).
RELATED ISSUES
2/9/2021 | Decolonize sustainable + ethical fashion.
12/22/2020 | Unpack the appropriation of streetwear culture.
10/30/2020 | Don't be racist this Halloween.
PLEDGE YOUR SUPPORT
Thank you for all your financial contributions! If you haven't already, consider making a monthly donation to this work. These funds will help me operationalize this work for greatest impact.
Subscribe on Patreon | Give one-time on PayPal | Venmo @nicoleacardoza
Decolonize sustainable + ethical fashion.
Sustainability is fashion’s latest trend. All over, marketing buzzwords like “ethical” and “eco-conscious” float around the likes of ads, press releases, and influencer Instagram pages. Although bringing awareness to the harmful impact of fashion’s waste is a positive note in the right direction, many seem to exclude a significant part of the discussion: the manufacturer workers, often women of color, earning significantly less than a liveable wage.
Happy Tuesday, and welcome back to the Anti-Racism Daily! As fashion week approaches, Isiah reminds us of the true cost of "sustainable" fashion. Take today as an opportunity to review where you shop for clothes and consider making more ethical decisions.
Thank you all for your support. This newsletter is made possible by our subscribers. Consider subscribing for $7/month on Patreon. Or you can give one-time on our website or PayPal. You can also support us by joining our curated digital community.
Nicole
Ps – be sure to sign up for 28 Days of Black History.
TAKE ACTION
Shop at brands that are transparent about their labor practices. Check their websites for more information and consult lists found all over the internet.
Take your money to fashion brands that are owned by people of color. BIPOC women are exploited the most in the industry, and it’s important to support brands that understand and combat this issue.
Support and donate to organizations that combat the use of sweatshops like Fair Labor Association, United Students Against Sweatshops, and National Labor Committee.
GET EDUCATED
By Isiah Magsino (he/him)
Sustainability is fashion’s latest trend. All over, marketing buzzwords like “ethical” and “eco-conscious” float around the likes of ads, press releases, and influencer Instagram pages. Although bringing awareness to the harmful impact of fashion’s waste is a positive note in the right direction, many seem to exclude a significant part of the discussion: the manufacturer workers, often women of color, earning significantly less than a liveable wage.
When people think of ethical and sustainable fashion, images of white people posed in a forest or on a beach immediately come to mind. Similarly, Zara’s “Life” campaign features a white model posing with plants in various ways. When ads and campaigns center on white consumers in natural settings, this “do good” mentality is often reserved for an upper-class white audience making the scope of conscious consumerism reserved to that demographic (Restitchstance).
However, there’s a trickle-down effect of a racist system that is often overlooked. When companies exclude people of color in their advertisements, they are ultimately ignoring the fact that people of color are disproportionately affected by fashion waste and unethical practices (Restitchstance). Though many large fashion brands are pivoting to a marketing tactic that parades sustainability, they are still sourcing external textile workers from the Global South (PebbleMag). These garment workers work for 60-100 hours for as little 5,300 takas (equivalent to $63 USD) a month in hostile conditions (Fashion Revolution). The majority of these garment workers are women of color. In China, more than 70% of garment workers are women, 85% in Bangladesh, and a skyrocketing 90% in Cambodia (Fashion Revolution). In Ethiopia, H&M manufacturer workers made as little as $26 USD a month (Telegraph UK).
But, the issue is not only overseas. The exploitation of women and children of color happens in the United States, too, primarily in New York and California (Green America). Those that work in domestic sweatshops are usually immigrants from Asia and Latin American (Green America). The major retailer, Fashion Nova, was accused of paying sewers in California less than $2.77 USD in 2019 (Quartz). Collectively, they owed workers $3.8 million in back wages (Quartz).
The history of sweatshops is directly linked to global expansion. The practice began in Europe and Britain during the 1800s following the industrial revolution as manufacturers needed quick and cheap labor (glass clothing). As worker’s rights improved, companies would eventually move to Asia after World War II. European companies sought an opportunity to expand and become a global business power (glass clothing). Additionally, New York became a hotspot for sweatshops during the 2oth century. Immigrants (mostly from Eastern Europe) needed money, thus agreeing to low-wage work in sweatshops (Matterprints). Sweatshops began employing immigrants from China, Korea, throughout Southeast Asia, Mexico, Dominican Republican, and Central and South America as the original Eastern European immigrants advanced to white color jobs (Matterprints).
Nowadays, these workers cannot fight for proper worker’s rights due to their oftentimes undocumented immigrants status. As Western labor costs rise, companies are still reliant on third-world countries that do not have strict labor laws allowing large corporations to get away with sweatshop use (Matterprints). This is why the conversation about sustainability and decolonization are intertwined: the fashion industry simply cannot exist without the exploitation of people of color, mostly women and children, who are working in inhumane conditions. The conversation of sustainability must recenter itself, including the voices of people of color. Sustainability is not only a concern of material waste – but of workers’ rights. Next time a major fashion retailer prides itself in being eco-friendly, dig deeper and ask: at the detriment of whom?
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Understand that, in this day and age, words like “sustainability” and “eco-friendly” are just marketing buzzwords that often leave worker’s rights (mostly equal pay) out of the equation. Fast fashion brands like Zara and H&M are guilty of this (Green America)
Women and Children of color make up most sweatshop employees and can earn as little as $26 USD a month. (Telegraph UK)
Sweatshops have historically exploited women and children of color, which is still happening in the present day. (Matterprints)
RELATED ISSUES
12/22/2020 | Unpack the appropriation of streetwear culture.
7/24/2020 | Reduce your plastic consumption.
9/29/2020 | Learn about climate migration.
PLEDGE YOUR SUPPORT
Thank you for all your financial contributions! If you haven't already, consider making a monthly donation to this work. These funds will help me operationalize this work for greatest impact.
Subscribe on Patreon | Give one-time on PayPal | Venmo @nicoleacardoza