Reject appropriation in fashion.
Happy Friday! And thanks for being here once again. We often get questions on what the line is between cultural appropriation and appreciation when it comes to clothing. It's not a straightforward line, but it's necessary to understand who benefits – and who is harmed – when the fashion industry celebrates cultural and ethnic markers at the expense of the communities it represents. Here to share more is Isiah.
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TAKE ACTION
Boycott labels that continue to appropriate cultural aesthetics without proper accreditation. Ask yourself: Have they collaborated with an artist, designer, musician that identifies with the culture they’re trying to emulate?
Hold brands accountable by sharing issues publicly, contacting corporate PR and design teams, and refusing to buy products from these companies.
Stay informed about racism and diversity in fashion by following accounts such as The Fashion Law and Black in Fashion Council.
GET EDUCATED
By Isiah Magsino (he/him)
Until its end in 2019, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show reigned supreme in not only pageantry and glittery wings but also cultural appropriation. Leaked photos from the 2012 live show revealed that supermodel Karlie Kloss donned a large feathered Native American headdress paired with a fringed suede bikini accessorized with turquoise jewelry. Though the immediate backlash caused the look to be cut from the broadcast, it wouldn’t stop the lingerie conglomerate from finding itself guilty for the same crime again in 2016 and 2017 (CRFashionbook).
But these aren’t the only places where appropriation happens. Fast-fashion retailer Zara is no stranger to cultural appropriation. The brand came under fire in 2018 after knocking off the traditional baati style from Somali by calling it a Tie-Dye Maxi Dress (Allure). Some brand insiders argue that the outfits are meant to celebrate cultures from around the world, but this misunderstanding of what’s appreciation and what’s appropriation is another flaw the fashion industry must fix (BBC). (To learn more about the problems with the fast-fashion industry, check out our previous newsletter.)
By definition, appropriation is when a person from one culture adopts the fashion, iconography, or traditions from another culture (Very Well Mind). While the act might not sound that bad, the issue lies when the borrower (who often belongs to the oppressive or dominant culture) profits off of, falsely represent or exploits whatever is being borrowed (Reach Out). As cultural appropriation remains widespread amongst the white elite, the issue isn’t necessarily that they take inspiration from other cultures. It’s that those in power take from and profit off of Black and Brown creators, while such creators are excluded from recognition and oftentimes reprimanded for the same styles that are being stolen (Vox ATL). For example, singer Billie Eilish was accused of appropriating Black, hip-hop fashion styles from the 90s. When her “style” is written about, the media often doesn’t credit the Black icons like Aaliyah and Dapper Dan whom her style ultimately emulates (Buzzfeed). Similarly, in 2020, Kim Kardashian was accused of appropriating Black culture after posting pictures of herself wearing Fulani Braids (Independent UK).
On a larger scale, cultural appropriation in fashion points to a racist system of power. Borrowed styles are often glamourized on white bodies, but looked down upon on the Black and Brown bodies where the styles originated. Fashion designer Marc Jacobs immediately faced backlash after featuring dreadlocks in a show with mostly white models in 2017 (Dazed). Using dreadlocks as a costume for a fifteen-minute show ignores the reality of the Black people who experience discrimination and harassment for their hairstyles. Black women continue to have career opportunities taken away from them simply because of their natural hair (Shape). Coils, afros, and dreads have long been considered “unprofessional” due to Western beauty standards which forces Black women in the workplace to abide in order to gain or retain employment (Shape). For more about cultural appropriation and Black hair, check out our previous newsletter.
Similarly, the “fox-eye” trend is a make-up look that uses eyeliner to make the eyes appear more slanted. The irony is that the Asian American community continues to be discriminated against for these same features (Teen Vogue). Not only are the designs and beadwork of Indigenous people exploited by non-Indigenous retailers, but around the world, Indigenous people—themselves—are as well (Unreasonable). White people who appropriate cultures are able to move seamlessly in and out and borrow styles without suffering the consequences put in place by them.
While white fashion designers and retailers profit off of these stolen styles from Black and Brown people, designers of color often are struggling and in need of financial support. In 2017, four percent of women-owned fashion businesses and only thirteen percent minority-owned businesses received venture capital funding (Fast Company). As COVID-19 continues, an estimated ninety percent of small businesses owned by people of color are excluded from the Small Business Administration’s Paycheck Protection Program (Fashionista).
Unsurprisingly, cultural appropriation in fashion isn’t new. Its origins can be traced through textiles and materials made of interlacing fibers that often are used in clothing and upholstery. For example, the nineteenth-century European court dress, a style that was popular for formal occasions, borrowed fashion and Asiatic themes that resembled the Indian Kashmir shawl (WWD). The textile moved into vogue among the masses as it was donned by Emperor Bonaparte’s wife, Josephine (WWD). At the same time that India was controlled by the British Empire and its citizens were subjugated to colonial rule, their styles were being stolen and worn.
The modern-day issue of cultural appropriation is a continuation of a history where people of color and their cultures are colonized and oppressed—at the same time—as what they wear is stolen and used. Today, social media enables consumers to more fully understand where styles are borrowed from (BBC). Consumers and inherent participants in the fashion industry should remain aware of where their money is being spent, as well as, who is benefitting from it. Conducting thorough research is vital in the support of Black and Brown artisans while, on the other hand, brands prone to appropriation instead of appreciation must be held accountable.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Cultural appropriation in fashion is rampant, and signifies the power differential between who can take and who is being taken from.
Appropriated styles are often glamourized on white bodies, but denigrated on the Black and Brown bodies where the styles originated.
Cultural appropriation in fashion has a long history. At the same time that India was controlled and subjugated by the British Empire, Indian styles became fashionable in European courts.
While white designers profit off of appropriated styles, Black and Brown designers often lack financial support. An estimated 90% of small businesses owned by people of color are excluded from the Paycheck Protection Program (Fashionista).
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12/22/2020 | Unpack the appropriation of streetwear culture.
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