Diversify executive leadership.
Happy Tuesday and welcome back to the Anti-Racism Daily! I've really been enjoying Isiah's critical analysis of the fashion industry, especially as fashion shows and award shows take over my social media feeds. But today's article resonates with me because the issues outlined here are reflected in many other industries. As you read, consider: how can you carry the same energy into the industry you work in, or are passionate about?
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Nicole
TAKE ACTION
Do more than hire Black and Brown Talent. Promote and hire Black and Brown talent for executive positions, also.
For predominantly white workplaces: instead of relying on friends for the unpaid labor of informing you about the importance of a diverse workplace, hire professional diversity consultants like 2BG Consulting.
Don’t just work on diversifying workplaces, but ensure that workplaces cultivate an environment where Black and Brown employees feel safe and thrive.
Encourage your favorite brands and retailers to join the 15 Percent Pledge – an initiative that asks retailers to reserve 15 percent of their shelving space for Black-owned businesses.
GET EDUCATED
By Isiah Magsino (he/him)
Fashion exists in a vortex of trends. Certain colors make their way into vogue as quickly as they make their way out. What’s considered chic can easily turn in a faux pas in a matter of a few months. And while fashion continues to work on a more sustainable system to combat waste, there’s one topic currently in vogue that must not be seen as a trend: diversity in fashion’s workplaces.
In the wake of the Black Lives Matter protests in the response to George Floyd’s murder, fashion brands all over the world suddenly felt the need to address racism in the fashion industry (Dazed). From futile black squares captioned “I understand, that I’ll never understand” to posting pictures of Black and Brown models on their social media pages that were undiscovered until this time, brands were desperate to save themselves by coming off as an advocate for racial equality.
But, unlike in the past, employees from the institutions called out the reality of the systemic racism, microaggressions, and lack of diversity in their own offices (Vogue Business). High-fashion Australian brand, Zimmerman, was one of the brands called out after their internal grooming regulations were brought to the limelight. These regulations specifically targeted Black and Brown natural hairstyles and prohibited high buns, top knot, plaits, and braids (Vogue Business). And the high-fashion market isn’t the only place where public messages didn’t match with internal practices. The sustainable, millennial-focused brand, Everlane, was called out by former employees for their “anti-Black” behavior. The accusations include the large pay gap between queer women of color and white men and refusing to use Black models in their campaigns because they were “too edgy” according to the executives (Fashionista).
And explicitly toxic workplaces aren’t exempt from this diversity malpractice, either. In 2018, fashion’s runways were becoming more diverse than ever with almost 50 percent of Black and Brown models in New York and 36-percent through all fashion locations (New York, London, Milan, Paris). And while this was an improvement from the reported 30-percent in 2017, the Black and Brown editors, buyers, and other decision-makers were scarce (New York Times). Just recently, the New York Times came out with a follow-up report as many brands publicly promised to improve diversity within the workplace in 2020. The article cites that, in 2021, there is only one Black chief executive officer out of the 64 brands they contacted for the new survey (New York Times). There are also only four Black creative directors and designers out of 69 from the same batch of surveyed brands. For fashion magazines, only two of the nine domestic and international editions of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Elle were led by Black editors.
An industry where nepotism and classism are rampant is also an incubator for systemic racism. Without familial ties or financial support, launching a company is especially difficult for Black and Brown designers (Fast). In 2019, the predominantly white Council of Fashion Designers crowned Mary Kate and Ashley as the winner for the Accessories Designer of the year and a hefty $400,000 USD grand prize. This would be their second year in a row. The other four nominees for the category were all Black designers-- Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton, Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss, Telfar Clemens of Telfar, and Heron Preston (Nylon). The unpaid internship, a common practice in the industry, only offers the opportunity to those with financial support oftentimes limiting Black and Brown talent (Fashionista).
How can an industry parade its interest in diversity, while still prohibiting Black and Brown talent from the decision-making process? If morals and ethics aren’t enough for brands to create workplace environments where Black and Brown’s talent is heard and nurtured, they must consider the power of social media. Without Black and Brown leadership, brands have the potential to come across major backlash as seen when H&M sold a “Coolest Monkey in the Jungle” sweatshirt (Washington Post.) Consumers are hyper-aware of these malpractices and have more than enough resources to support brands that are more than willing to cultivate diverse talent. Ultimately, it’s said that fashion has always been reflective of the times. Now, the times are looking both on the inside and the out.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
Many fashion brands are quick to publicly denounce racism, but will still participate in systemic racism within their own offices whether that be through microaggressions or pay gaps.
The New York Times recently reported that in 2021, there is only one Black chief executive officer out of the 64 brands that were contacted and only four Black creative directors out of 69 designers from the same survey group.
Unpaid internships in the fashion industry prohibit Black and Brown talent from entering.
Without diversity in decision-making processes, brands run the risk of future backlash with socially-aware consumers who are quick to respond on social media.
RELATED ISSUES
3/4/2021 | Reject appropriation in fashion.
2/9/2021 | Decolonize sustainable + ethical fashion.
12/17/2020 | Respect Hawaii’s sacred land.
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